The final post about my friend’s January travel Vitalik. That’s how it happens, at first he didn’t want to write, and then I signed several posts 
I read and understand that people like this it is necessary to conduct blogs, it painfully writes. But it is not surprising linguists are all like that.
For two days at the Pole of Cold, I learned something noteworthy from the life of simple ojmyonets. The result was the idea of making it in the form of a small selection of 33 facts. That’s what’s in the result was.
1. Oymyakon in Yakutia is called the whole area, which includes several localities, including the village with the same name title. The center of the area is the village of Tomtor, where there is an airport and meteorological station on which the minimum temperature -71.2 ° C. Here you can see on the map.
2. In Oimyakon itself (village), which is 40 km to north of Tomtor, there was never a weather station, but a memorable stella for decency set and there.
3. Outwardly, the villages of the Oimyakon Valley differ little from habitual to us somewhere in the Volga region. Turns out technology simple russian izba can easily withstand extreme frosts.
4. Machines do drive with double glazing. And if on the frontal immediately put a double pack, then with the side It is impossible, therefore the second glass is pasted on an ordinary adhesive tape. Otherwise, the person sitting next to him will have the risk of freezing himself half faces.
5. At night, the cars are jammed, but there are special ones for them. heated garages where the temperature does not drop much lower scratch, so start up is not a problem.
6. At temperatures below minus 56 (it is considered cold here) technique begins to behave strangely, and unnecessarily far away It is not recommended to leave.
7. If you still had to go in such a frost, then the expense gasoline is doubled. Also, if you stay on the road, then the tires start to deform under the weight of the car, and at first you have to go slowly and as if by bumps. Also account for carry with you a full set of spare parts, enough to repair a stalled motor on the road.
8. Primary school children stop going to school when temperatures below -52, older – at minus 58. This is due to the same risk of failure of equipment, because many children get to school on bus ride.
9. In some houses, for example, in the village of Kuydusun, where I stopped, there is a central water supply. However, the tap flows only hot water (cold water in the pipes would simply freeze), and taking a shower to someone who turned off the hot water at home should be funny: you need to carry cold water in buckets and dilute it with hot water. Crane – the opposite is true.
10. By the way, many have a toilet in the yard. It has light, but there is no heating, and this is considered normal. Sensations from visiting such a place, I guess, I will not share here =) However, new ones houses are trying to build in the already familiar, not extreme format.
11. The cost of firewood for heating 120 m2 house + bath + garage for the season (which lasts here 8 months) is about 50 tr. WITH Considering the fact that this also provides hot water, even cheaper than in Moscow.
12. “Oymyakon” in translation from Evenskiy means “non-freezing water “. Indeed, where is it still not freezing. The whole thing in warm keys that beat out of the ground and form streams on the surface. They completely freeze only by March. Nature around them exceptionally beautiful.
13. People live hunting (for themselves) and livestock (for sale and cash receipt). Bred horses for meat, there is still a large reindeer farm. In the photo the barn.
14. The Yakut horse is a unique beast. She doesn’t need a crib, she grazing outdoors in any weather, it also produces food myself, picking hoof frozen ground. Feed it should only so that it does not go far from the owners.
15. Farmers say that this horse is “programmed” to search. special nourishing herbs, so that its meat contains such a complex of vitamins that allows a person to fully eat without eating vegetables and fruits.
16. Horsemeat is considered a local rude meat. In honor Zherebyatina, and in the Yakut restaurant you will be served exactly her, and not horse meat
17. Block a foal at the age of 6-7 months old, tying his eyes and striking a aimed blow with a hammer.
18. I cannot check for vitamins, but a bottle of koumiss from This horse’s milk makes you forget about hunger for a long time. Taste he is exceptionally tart, and resembles a dense strong ale.
19. The height of the hunting season falls on the most severe frost, since hunting is prohibited in the spring – animals give offspring this season, and in summer, bears compete (which, incidentally, is not particularly local stops, they only complain that bears shoot it is forbidden, and with the forced necessity it will have to prove).
20. Despite their attachment to nature, the local prosharya in information technology (albeit, the mobile Internet there is only MTS). For example, driver Max, that drove me from Ust-Nera in Tomtor, with his wife quit his job, they are now engaged in network marketing – manage sales some Tibetan dietary supplements.
21. Everyone, including 70-year-old pensioners, has an account. WhatsApp with photos.
22. WhatsApp allows you to rescue the driver or hunter in the event problems: for example, if he did not return at the agreed time and I got in touch, my wife makes an alert through the group, and everyone on Communications help organize search and rescue operations.
23. Debt in the store can be paid by transfer from card to card.
24. In the village of Tomtor for the whole area there is a cafe (at least there go with family and friends, as in a cafe). You can not eat there foal, but you can french fries and nuggets – for local it delicacy. When they learned that I was from Moscow, they tried hard to find out do they have the right potato?
25. From power structures to the whole Oimyakon valley only in Tomtore has a precinct and investigator. In the remaining villages, According to the local, anarchy, gangsterism and drunken clashes reign.
26. There is a guy in Oymyakon, I do not remember the name. Once in he was knocked out on the street by a drunken brawl and abandoned. He woke up after 15 minutes, came home, fell asleep. The result – the amputation of almost all frostbitten fingers. Now working as a driver, by the way.
27. Tomtor has a local history museum. It can twist in hands almost all the exhibits, including the 1764 carbine. Visit the museum is free, but you need to first find its owner. what still look in Oymyakon.
28. Oimyakonye is famous for its Gulag camps, which in one district numbered 29. It is said that for resistance to shoots nkvdshniki promised local hunters for each brought hand of a runaway bag of sugar or flour (brush needed to verify fingerprints). The circuit worked. More In addition, the particularly cunning ones first caught the fugitives, forced them to time to work for yourself, and only then killed: but what, the bag sugar is not superfluous.
29. In addition to local lore, there is a museum of the Gulag, as its called local. It was assembled by a simple village teacher and located in the school building. I wrote a little more about him here.
30. The title of “Pole of Cold” is not particularly proud of the locals and even would be happy to officially give it to Verkhoyansk (this is another coldest place of Yakutia, which is already beyond the Arctic Circle). Them a bit it hurts that foreigners come to gawk at them like they are losers whom fate has thrown into the coldest corner the planets.
31. Local people seriously consider their climate as one of best, and really wondering why others call him hell. In the local history museum there is a whole stand on how Oimyonsky air has a positive effect on health. With examples of “stories success “known centenarians.
32. Foreign travel often ends for them. adventures. They say how some Czechs drove somehow along the old Magadan highway, and they just ran out of gas. Good, one of them managed to catch a satellite connection and called home. Those already to the Czech embassy, from there to the president’s reception in Yakutsk, further to Ust-Nehru, further to Tomtor, and they have already thrown a cry into Whatsapp Found them still “lukewarm.” By rescuing from of cold captivity, those with joy bought the local two boxes of vodka than staged a big spree on the whole village.
33. Every year a festival takes place in Tomtor at the beginning of April. “Pole of Cold”, on which the demo-frost fly from all over the world, and there are also many tourists, and the festival as they can. Arrange competitions among the dead frost on snowmobiles, deer, and also – for local girls – “Miss Pole of Cold” and “Mistress of the Plague” (emphasis on “y”). Why is the festival with such a name held here in April, and not, for example, in January? They say, at the request of the thermophilic Santa Claus.
P.S. Acne does not blog, so here is a link to his Facebook account. You can also read about Yakutsk and Lenskie pillars, as well as about the road to Oimyakon.
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